ABout Jordan
 

History:
 

Jordan's history is one of the most alluring on earth, mainly due to this being the region where Christianity came into being. Jordan's history began earlier than this however. As far back as 8000BC the Jordan Valley was home to tribes of neolithic hunters who scratched out a rudimentary existence from the land. In 2000BC the Amorites displaced these primitive tribes with their civilised culture, founding the land known as Canaan. According to the Bible following the exodus from Egypt under Moses the Israelites marched into Canaan, "the land of milk and honey". Certainly Israelites did begin to settle here, and within four or five centuries the Amorites had been absorbed into this more dominant culture.

Jordan for several centuries was left alone as the Egyptian-Syrian conflict skirted the region, allowing Jordan to develop into a string of city states, situated along the fertile Jordan Valley and around the Dead Sea. The ancient kingdoms that thrived here were the cities and towns named in the Old Testament - Moab, Ramoth Gilead, Sodom and Gomorrah, and Rabath Ammon, the dominant city of the Ammon kingdom and site of Jordan's modern day capital, Amman.

The stories of the Old Testament have brought thousands of archaeologists to the region, attempting to unravel myth from fact, and in the most part it appears that the stories have some explanation in fact. The disappearance of Sodom and Gomorrah for example is believed to coincide with an earthquake in around 1400BC, when the Dead Sea depression was created. Over the next millennium the region was subject to invasions and conflict as the Jewish kingdoms battled with the east bank powers. In a century spanning c.700BC to c.600BC the Assyrians conquered Israel the Babylonians conquered Assyria and the Persians conquered Babylon. Out of this flux three dominant cultures settled in the region, the Greeks, the Jews and the Nabateans, the latter being responsible for the splendid cave city of Petra.

The Roman Empire by this time was growing its influence along the West Bank, and kings such as Herod on the East bank of the Dead Sea were becoming no more than lackeys of the European Empire. The events of the New Testament are well documented and by 100AD the Romans had cast their net over the Jordan Valley and the East Bank. The Romans moved swiftly, establishing a capital at Petra (Roman architectural motifs are much in evidence at the site) and rapidly grew their influence over the entire region.

The Ghassanids brought the Byzantine Christian culture to the region in the 6th century, but the next major influence only occurred in 633AD when the Muslims moved into the area. Within three years Jordan had converted to Islam and the succession of the Umayyads brought a time of relative peace and prosperity as the dynasty ruled the region for the next two hundred years before being replaced by the equally stable Abassids.

In 1099 Europeans once more turned their attention to the region, in their bloody crusade to "free" the holy city of Jerusalem. In Jordan their legacy can best be seen at Kerak where the Christians built a fortress overlooking the important north-south trade route. Eventually the crusaders were beaten back by Saladin who captured Jerusalem in 1187 and proceeded to kick the Europeans out of their strongholds (including Kerak). By the 13th century the Mamlukes had taken over the holy city and effectively ruled Jordan.

But by now there was another European superpower in the region in the shape of the Turkish Ottomans. Growing in influence elsewhere in the region, the Ottomans finally defeated the Mamlukes in the 16th century, ruling Jordan for the next 400 years. Ottoman rule was unpopular and in the wake of World War One, when the empire collapsed, Jordan was part of the "Arab Revolt" that shook off Turkish sovereignty.

In 1921 Emir Abdullah pronounced the Emirate of Trans-Jordan, a self-governing state under British mandate. In 1946, with the British withdrawal from the region following the Suez crisis, Abdullah was able to proclaim the fully independent Hashemite Kingdom of Jordan. 1953 was an auspicious year for the entire Middle East region as King Hussein Ibn Tallal ascended to the throne. A great statesman he made great leaps in brokering peace among the troubled territories along the West Bank, forging relationships between Israel and Palestine and moving the conflict from the battlefield to the political arena.

Having succumbed to cancer in 1998 the immensely popular regent is still mourned by his people, and much of the work he established during his reign has collapsed as hostilities along the West Bank have sporadically resumed. His son King Abdullah now rules in his stead.

Culture:
 

The majority of the population of Jordan is Sunni Muslim, a moderate branch of the Muslim faith, and the culture is very much dominated by Muslim tenets of hospitality and mutual respect. You will find this isn't much in evidence at times, particularly at popular tourist sites and markets where locals jostle tourists for business, but generally speaking Jordanians are not only respectful to tourists but warmly welcoming.

They are also a fiercely proud race, particularly the Bedouins, hardy nomads of the desert and steppes. Although sometimes initially taciturn you'll find few people as pleased to talk about their history and culture once you break the ice. Jordanians also show a great interest in outsiders, with a genuine interest in where visitors come from and what they think of Jordan.

Although much Westernised in parts Jordanian society still stays true to some parts of a more archaic, traditionalist society. It is a very machismo culture and women and men are not often seen together in social situations. Men can be seen hanging around together in coffee bars and teahouses, or engaged in good-natured haggling at the souk, while the woman's lot is in the food marketplace or at home. This partly explains why Western women often attract unwarranted amounts of attention, particularly as many Jordanian women still wear the traditional dress that almost completely hides them from public view.

Food and particularly drink plays an important role in Jordanian culture and refusing an offer of either may be considered slightly insulting to your host (although most Jordanians are well used to Western ways). Naturally this can be open to abuse. Some traders may use an offer of coffee as an excuse to give you the hard sell, and if they are really unscrupulous might try to charge you for refreshment if you don't subsequently buy anything, but generally the customary hospitality is meant as just that. A Jordanian meal is a real social occasion with communal dishes, and is a great experience of the local culture at its most natural and relaxed.

Food:
 

Food in Jordan consists of a mixed menu typical of the Middle East, rated as one of the finest cuisines in the world.

 Despite Jordan's increasing internationalism (and you can find international cuisines easily in Amman and Aqaba) the cuisine maintains its unique Arabian culinary heritage in its preparation and particularly in its importance in every day society. Eating or feasting remains at the centre of cultural celebrations and the daily cycle of life.

The larger hotels are geared towards an international cuisine menu. While tourist haunts will be relatively expensive (similar to Western European prices) the restaurants frequented by locals are often vastly cheaper. If eating in the latter you should note that often the selection is somewhat more limited and often meat is left out of the equation altogether, but meals are still extremely filling, made up of several courses. Of course, if you prefer vegetarian food, suitable meals are offered at most places.

Beverages are served with meals, in particular the local drink known as Arak; an aniseed-flavoured liquor that is mixed with water and ice.

Drinks:
 

Jordan is an Islamic Country and as such many locals eschew alcohol. The dominant drink is coffee, and it is no accident that the national symbol is a coffee pot. Coffee is served strong and without milk in tiny cups. Cardamom is often added for flavour. Mint tea may be offered as an alternative. You should note the role that the offer of coffee and tea plays in Jordanian and in fact all Arabian hospitality. You should accept at least one cup if invited to someone's house and it may even be offered if you are discussing a purchase in a souk.

However, Jordan is a tolerant state and beer (both local and import), wine and other types of alcohol are served in most restaurants and bars. The exception is during the holy month of Ramadan when alcohol is not served or drunk by any Arabs in the country. Foreign visitors who aren't Muslims can still drink but only in international hotel bars. Note that while public drunkeness at all times is illegal, to be drunk during Ramadan is a gross cultural offence. You are advised to only drink in your own hotel.

The local lager is Philadelphia lager, but international brand Amstel is brewed under licence in the country and is probably the most prevalent of the lagers found throughout the nation.

A widely drunk alcoholic spirit is the local firewater, Arak. It is an aniseed-flavoured drink which although strong if drank neat becomes a very palatable drink when mixed with water.

 Imported or domestically produced wines are widely available, particularly in international hotels. All tap water in urban areas is drinkable.

Shopping:
 

Amman is the best shopping area for tourists, although you'll find plenty of opportunities to purchase items no matter where you go. If you want conventional shopping however, you should stick to the cities. Amman and Aqaba can boast an increasing range of international stores, selling all sorts of international and designer goods. It is in these two cities that you'll find the duty free shops as well, catering to the tourist with significantly reduced prices.

However, the department stores and international shops are far from the most interesting places to shop in this nation of traders. If you want a proper Middle Eastern shopping experience you have to head for a souk, the traditional markets that have been at the centre of the nation's oldest towns and cities for centuries. While most cities and towns will have a souk the acknowledged best of the nation's many markets is Amman's "Gold Souk". Near to King Heisal street this maze of narrow alleys is full of small shops and stalls. As you might guess from its name the souk specialises in gold and other precious metals. Prices are based on the weight of gold in each piece, which makes jewellery extremely reasonable by international standards.

Elsewhere in the souks you will find familiar Middle Eastern articles, rugs brass and copperware, and fine inlayed wooden items. There is little variation in what's on offer from region to region, although quality and price may vary. For example Bedouin crafts may be found in the souks of Aqaba but will be cheaper from their source around the Eastern desert.

Note that you are expected to haggle over prices in the souks, it is part and parcel of the experience. Do not haggle in shops where there are marked prices however, you will look ridiculous.

- what to buy ??

There are a number of distinctive items that make unique and memorable souvenirs of a visit to Jordan. Traditional arts and crafts can now be found all over the nation. One thing that you should definitely look out for is the handmade Hebron glass, from the town of Na'ur near to Amman. Although you'll find shops in the city that sell Hebron artefacts, from glasses and tumblers to full chandeliers, you can also take a trip to the factory and see how the glassware is manufactured according to centuries old patterns.

Articles of Bedouin manufacture carry with them something of the spirit of the Middle East and you'll find plenty of items if this ilk for sale in markets wherever you travel. Woven rugs and hangings made from the wool of Bedouin sheep herds don't come cheap but are of the highest quality. If lucky enough to meet some genuine Bedouins it is likely that you'll get a better bargain than from the traders who make their living selling rugs to tourists.

Copperware, brassware and fantastic gold and silver jewellery, in traditional Middle Eastern designs, are all excellent purchases. Prices for precious metals are often based on weight, with the addition of a standard price for the craftsmanship that has gone into the manufacture of an item. This makes prices extremely reasonable by international standards.